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couch tutorial part 7 finish the seat backs

  • Posted on December 9, 2014 at 7:09 am

grade the overlapping edges
once the tufts are all sewn grade any overlapping edges to cut down on the bulk. i realized after i got all the back pieces covered that the only overlapped edges were on the long sections and i had graded the short ones too :p oh well, it actually wasn’t noticeable and i wasn’t going to redo it so i’ll have to live with it, but you might want to see which ones really need it before cutting! i did grade the correct ends at least by wrapping loosely around the foam, placing the backs on the seats then marking the end to be cut of with a tiny x on the inside -it got cut off anyway so didn’t show.

start at the bottom edge where you will want to finish, line up the padded seat portion and pin it on then wrap. i use lots of pins to keep everything flat and snug then trimmed off the fabric i didn’t need before sewing. my foam was thick enough that i could bury the pins without poking myself and leave them there till my stitching was done.

stitch with a flat whip stitch you want the fabric to be pulled snug but not super tight, and to be as flat as you can make it on the bottom. that will make attaching the backs easier.

close up of the finished seat back

next post we will attach the seat backs and the couches will be done 🙂

couch tutorial part 6 start the seat backs

  • Posted on December 8, 2014 at 5:21 pm

the seat backs do need the ends covered, since they will show. so i cut pieces of fabric big enough to wrap around like this. i glued where the foam is resting on the fabric on both sides, (hope that make sense, if not take a look at the next picture) but not the end since i didn’t want the glue to bleed through.

cut a rectangle out of each corner then glue those long flaps down

you will need to cover each piece of seat back, however many you choose. in my original picture i had 3 but i added an arm/end to the longer couch so now i have 4 🙂

now to make the covers while the glue dries
these are very similar tho the seat covers. 3 layers of warm and natural with an extra layer of the cover fabric to prevent show through since my fabric is fairly thin. you wouldn’t need that extra fabric if your fabric was darker or thicker. the difference is the placement since this time my seam will be on the narrow edge instead of in the middle of the back.

i decided to only do the tufting partway up the backs. looking at my clippings file, that was the style i preferred. but even so there are 62 more tufts to go!

couch tutorial part 5 a change of plans, and we add the feet

  • Posted on December 7, 2014 at 11:28 am

after i got the skirt sew on i decided the seats just looked too blocky the way they were. so i took off the bottom layer of foam (luckily the glue hadn’t completely hardened yet) and folded the skirt under instead. here it is pinned tight to glue

i cut pieces of posterboard a few millimeters smaller than the foam piece to cover the base (for those of you using inches that would be about 1/8″ on either end)
the posterboard glued in place. this was weighted down with my trusty stack of hardcover books to dry 🙂

sticking to my plan to only use what i already had on hand for this couch, i auditioned feet from the supply in my craft drawers, instead of following my initial impulse of running to michaels or the dollar store to get small wooden blocks. the ones on the left hand side won. both because i liked the style better and i had four more of them, so there were enough to put six feet on the each couch instead of only four

and the feet glued on…

couch tutorial part 4 skirting

  • Posted on December 6, 2014 at 9:26 am

the glue is all dry now it’s time to add the skirt. having cut a piece wide enough to go to the floor and also fold over quite aways, i press it the right length. the extra fold will be in the center back. the fabric i used had enough selvedge edge for both skirts so i didn’t have to hem it – bonus!

pinned all around to check the length. then unpinned on end and pressed under again to finish edge. i left it a bit long since a plan to add feet underneath which will take up the slack

flip up and sew…

back stitch along fold line to edge of seat. (to be continued when i finish this step)

couch tutorial part 3 attaching the seat covers

  • Posted on December 5, 2014 at 9:04 am

the tufting is all done. this is really the only part that wouldn’t work to glue, but you could make your dots farther apart if you aren’t as obsessive as i am 😉 you could also add small buttons or beads on each tuft to mimic the buttons on a couch. personally i hate sitting on pillows with buttons so i refuse to inflict them on my dolls 😆

now tuck the ends in this hides all those ugly frayed ends and makes it look neat from the outside. make sure it is exactly as wide as your foam piece.

and pin in place, line up your batting even with the top of the foam and pin it in place so it doesn’t shift before you turn it over and stretch the back around.

whip stitched closed. this doesn’t have to be super neat as it won’t show. it’s more important that it be relatively flat, and that it hold the fabric tight. you could also glue this step if you’d rather and just leave the pins in to hold it tight till the glue dries, but i think stitching is more secure.

glue and weight …and wait 😉

the top layer added to each seat and weighted again so it will dry flat. once again there are TWO seats here, just stacked for space and so i can use the same weight for both. if you look at the end you will see i carefully covered the foam piece before i wrapped my tufted piece around it. i realized after i did, that the ends would be completely covered in the next step so it wasn’t necessary and i didn’t show that step.

next step coming after the glue dries….

couch tutorial part 2 making the seat covers

  • Posted on December 4, 2014 at 7:34 am

i cut (actually tore since it was easier to keep square) a piece of fabric big enough to just wrap around each of the third foam seat pieces, with an inch or so pressed under for a clean edgecut (or tear) a piece of fabric big enough to just wrap around the third foam seat, with an inch or so pressed under for a clean edge

also 3 pieces of warm and natural and 1 of the cover fabric each the same size as the foam

i glued them together with temporary spray adhesive (505 spray) and centered them on the cover fabric

pin basting

marking the grid

sew and tie each dot!

there are 156 on my two seats so that will take me a while…..

my next project and a step by step tutorial in excrutiating detail ;o)

  • Posted on December 3, 2014 at 11:21 am

i’m starting a new project, one i’ve been wanting to do for ages, and just for fun i’m going to post step by step pictures in case it works and anyone else wants to try it 😉 it started off with these great sheets of packing foam that came round a new monitor my husband got last year when our old one died.
i could see the potential in them for building some great doll stuff, so i snagged them and stuffed them in the closet where they sat till i finally pulled them out to start working.

first i cut 3 pieces 6-1/2″ X 15″, and 3 pieces 6-1/2″ x 13″ for the seats. i’m using inches instead of cm this time, just because i’m using my quilting ruler to cut with and it is in inches.

then i cut 1 piece each 3-1/2″x15″, 3-1/2″x13″ & 3-1/2″x5-1/2″ for the seat backs

this is the rough shape of my couch/sofa. i’m just not sure whether i want the back of the short side to extend all the way out, like my mock up, or only go half-way out like some other couches i’ve seen. any thoughts?

glue 2 only of each of the seat pieces together in pairs then weight them flat to dry

set back and regroup

  • Posted on May 23, 2014 at 8:02 am

my supposedly preshrunk mercerized cotton shrunk just enough after dyeing that now the cap is too small. i stretched it as much as possible and it still goes round her head but you can see that it is now too short. 🙁 i have ordered more yarn in the right color, since the reason i dyed this in the first place is that i can only get white locally. i will probably put a white lacy trim on the too small caps for her to wear when she just doesn’t feel like bothering with hair, so it won’t be a total loss, but still….

in the meantime, i wound off a small skein of yarn and dyed it with coffee again. as soon as it finishes drying i will make another cap (or 2)

ruby looks as disgruntled as i am. mercerized cotton is NOT supposed to shrink. that is one of the reasons i used it instead of one of the dozens of other fine yarns i have lying around.

building the perfect wig step 2

  • Posted on May 22, 2014 at 8:25 am

the next step is to coffee dye the wig caps so they arent so blinding white. this will hopefully help them blend in a bit better with the hair and scalp

much better
more beige than pink, but without actually dyeing them this is about as close as i will get i think. now they just have to dry, and hopefully won’t lighten up too much as they do!

building the perfect wig step 1

  • Posted on May 21, 2014 at 4:37 pm

today i am trying to design the “perfect fit” wig for my pukipuki. step one is designing a wig cap the fits perfectly and doesn’t pop off right away. this involved a lot of stitching, frogging and re-stitching till i finally got the shape exactly the way i wanted.

it also involves fine crochet cotton, a very small hook and a tiny safety pin for a moveable stitch marker

i couldn’t figure out how to do a video and get it in focus but the cap stays on even if i shake her. (don’t worry no dollies were harmed during the shaking, and ruby was happy to help with the demonstration) hopefully that will still hold true once i add the hair and it gets heavier, but for now i am quite pleased with the fit!